#1 Women are Evil.
#2 Most people are Stupid.
#3 Always check a car out before you buy it.All that said, I'm sorry you got shafted. Jackie apparently didn't tell you of some of the cars problems, and he should have if he wanted to keep his name intact on this forum. However I dare say he's not anything like Hazz. Not trying to defend him, just saying chalk it up as a lesson and move on. That said, here's some friendly and free advice. If it shakes when you brake, buy new rotors and install them yourself. It's not that flipping hard. It's not that expensive either. >$200 Driver's side lock jacking up? (Reminds me of my old 280Z.) There's actually a write up on how to rebuild (clean) your hatch lock. Chances are you could use the same info to rebuild the lock in the door. Just do a search it's in the technical section. >$5 for lube Hood opening problems, try lubricating it if that doesn't work you might have a spring missing. Play with it, sounds like a 30 minute hassle. >$5 for the lube you already bought > $10 if you have to replace the piece Apparently you already started fixing or have already fixed the e-brake problems. This is one that A) you can kick Jackie on for not telling you about it considering he posted it here and B) kick yourself for not doing searches and finding it out yourself. > $ ? 3rd - 4th gear grind? Welcome to the world of high mileage Z's. I've got shit falling out of my transmission at this point, you're not gonna get a lotta sympathy from me. The fourth gear synchro isn't double coned and sucks rocks, EOS. Try going to MTL to solve the problem, (if he's not already running it). If it doesn't you're looking at either rebuilding it, buying a lower mileage one (what I did), or buying a new one from Nissan. (Newer part number but $2300)
$ all depends $35 for fluids to $2300 on a new Nissan tranny Driveshaft/axles jacking up? Do they have a lot of play in them or what? On an NA this is kinda surprising to me, I haven't seen too many posts on anyone blowing up axles and diffies on this board. Kyle of SGP was running mega monster quarter mile times on an NA rear. I think I've seen one post of drive shaft failure, where it broke cleanly after a run at the track. Powertrain industries sells a steel one piece driveshaft for our cars, it's about 20lbs instead of 28lbs for the stock one and should be the last one you'll ever need. I think it's around $200-$300. That's not too bad, it's a DIY job IMHO. Changing the diffy and axles out? I'd contact Ruzzel and see what he'd charge to do a swap for you. WAG says it won't be that expensive, but I'd be very sure the axles/diffy are bad, like I said, not used to seeing that one.
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